August 30, 2006

23 days in India, Part 1

[Please see more photos here]

AFTER three and a half days on Indian soil -- finally, some time to blog. Here's a journal of our travels so far.

FRIDAY

Our 28-hour journey to Bombay began Friday morning, with a ride to San Francisco International Airport. We encountered our first ever-friendly Korean Air employees at the ticket counter, who found us side-by-side seats on the plane and sent us on our way with a smile.

On board our first flight, I was too excited to sleep. There were already knew sights and sounds. Even with a group of teenagers bound for a inline skating tournament in Seoul, I was in the minority. I got my first international flight kit soon after take-off, complete an eyepatch, toothbrush and socks. The hostesses wore beautiful uniforms and rushed about to fill passengers' requests (including my many queries for water).

We had little time to explore Incheon airport, as our plane departed SFO a bit late and thus landed in Seoul a bit late. Soon, we were on our desi-packed flight to Bombay, where I slept, quite thankfully, for four solid hours, plus a few more naps.

SUNDAY

We landed promptly at 1 a.m. Sunday, as we were scheduled. I then, however, experienced my first round with what my boyfriend Vivek and his friends call “bad Indian planning”: another plane was at our gate (yes, at that hour of night), and so we waited on the jet another 40 minutes. Immigration, customs and even the ever-tedious wait at baggage claim, however, took only another hour. Soon, we Vivek was waving to his brother, Mani, at our exit. Vivek's parents both greeted me with a hug, the first of many measures to make me feel right at home here.

We were spirited home by a “hired”, which was a taxi reserved the whole evening by Vivek's family. Even at 3 a.m., we saw a number of people up around the city, including those setting up temples for Ganesha, the elephant-headed god whose festival began Sunday. Electric holiday lights strung up across the city are a good indicator that there's a Ganesha idol nearby. There's one right here at the apartment complex (which is called a “colony” here), and yesterday we saw a group of children there dancing. The story of Ganesha is one of the few I remember from studying Hinduism, and it's a great one. You can check it out here.

After a quick tour of home, a much-needed shower and my first simosa of the vacation, served with homemade chutney, I went to bed about 5 a.m., where I slept peacefully until about noon. Three of Vivek's friends, including Balan and Siva, showed up then, and we soon departed for Mulund – the self-appointed “Prince of Suburbs” to do a bit of shopping. I bought a pair of flip-flops (my filthy, cheap ones were chucked at home before we left) and my first two kurtas, which are long shirts made of cotton (good for the heat and humidity).

Our suburban expedition was my first chance to see India by daylight. The first thing I probably should note is that suburbs in India are not much like American suburbs. The high-rise apartment buildings here in Thane, where Vivek's parents live, remind me of the housing units you might find in Georgetown. But the problems of most cities extend even to here, including poverty. Shanties and tents line the streets, and there are homeless under bridges and overpasses here.

It didn't take long to realize that many of the guidebook photos I've seen can be misleading. A photo of a man selling fresh veggies from a stand can look quaint in a well-positioned photo. But in the larger context of many men selling veggies and trying hard to make a living out of it, it can be more depressing.

The second thing I should point out is that even in a city as large as Bombay, there are still hallmarks of a developing world. At the mall in Mulund, makeshift shelters of bamboo rods and tarps covered some of the open-air escalators and walkways to protect them from the monsoon rains.

We retired home Sunday evening for dinner, which was mostly ordered in. I ate mattar paneer (peas and fresh cheese) and a mutton dish both prepared by Vivek's mom, and just one piece of the tandoori chicken that was ordered. Vivek's mom – his folks are Mamta and Ananda, Aunty and Uncle to me – has been quite concerned that I'll fall ill, and is trying to ease me into outside cooking. (So far, I have to say, this approach is working quite well.) The friends departed near 10 p.m., and I went to sleep after another shower and some Web surfing.

MONDAY

Morning came early for me Monday, around 7 a.m. I've been sleeping lightly (my whole cycle's a bit off, having come, after all, halfway 'round the world). I set to reading about Bombay in preparation for my first big expedition to the heart of the city.

We set off around 11 a.m. -- a bit later than planned – on what turned out to be a two-hour journey. The roads we rode on are paved but filled with potholes after the monsoon rains. Despite the bumps and occasional swerves, however – and Mani is to be credited with some excellent maneuvering, I must say – I didn't get at all ill. To the contrary, I spent the better part of our first hour snapping photos out the window, such as this one at a busy intersection. Many crossroads here have no traffic lights, leaving motorists and pedestrians to their own devices – and most forge ahead without caution. I'm glad, let's just say, that I'm not doing the driving here.



We met Siva halfway to town, and he took over the driving from there. Our first stop within Bombay was the loo (that's toilet) at the Taj Mahal Hotel, just across from the Gateway to India. Think Four Seasons hotel bathroom - quite nice.

We took photos around the Gateway and then hopped into a cab to find food. I was excited to be in Bombay, but I started to realize at that point that the dizziness I'd been feeling hadn't quite gone away. On Sunday, I felt as though I was still on the plane, that the floor was rising and falling much the way it would in the air. Monday, however, I just felt lightheaded. I felt as if I'd had too much to drink and really just needed to lie down. After eating, touring the Bombay Store and finally cashing some traveler's checks, I gave up fighting the odd sensation. We headed to Vivek's friend Kunal's apartment, where I promptly fell asleep on a window seat with a view of the water.

Two hours, I awoke and took a shower (many thanks to Kunal!). We headed to Leopold's Cafe on Coloba Causeway, which it turns out is quite the tourist destination. After sitting in the heat there, I don't think anyone felt much like eating – but we headed anyway to dinner at a Chinese restaurant that’s a favorite of the eight friends I was hanging out with, whom Ankul’s wife Shi calls the “cricket” gang for their love of the sport. I very nearly fell asleep at the table there, and slept for a good portion of the ride home.

TUESDAY

I had planned to head to town again today with Vivek and Aunty, to do some sightseeing while Vivek got two cavities filled. But the lightheadedness struck again after breakfast, and I went back to bed. Aunty phoned one of her nephews, a doctor, who suggested plenty of fluids and some rest, so I stayed home. I woke at 4 p.m. to a glorious (if hot) bit of sunshine. After a shower, palak paneer (soft cheese in a spicy gravy of pureed spinach), I'm sadly still feeling a bit lightheaded – but better than this morning, and better, I'm sure, than if I'd made the journey to town.

With less than 72 hours of India under my belt, I suppose still in a bit of culture shock. It's frustrating not to understand Hindi, even in only brief spurts between Vivek and his friends (I've decided to poke him every time I need a translation). The streets are a bit overwhelming – there are people everywhere, which is exactly the way Vivek described it to me. But it's hard to comprehend, I guess, unless you've seen it. The colors are stunning, and often a welcome distraction from the poverty. Even the women living in tents or shanties wear vibrant saris.

Mostly, though, I'm anxious to be rid of my dizziness and to feel my two feet firmly planted on the ground again. Hopefully, in another day or two, that shall be the case.

WEDNESDAY

We've spent the day in so far (it's about 5 p.m. here), save for a trip out to pick up hair pins and an expanding file folder. Lunch was chole, one of my favorites, and I've spent the afternoon reading. Tonight shall be an early one, as we have early commitments in downtown Bombay tomorrow.

2 comments:

  1. Anonymous6:52 AM

    Darling,
    I can't believe you have a blog that I didn't know about! How wonderful....and such a great way to keep in touch while you're on this adventure. I hope you start feeling better soon, and are having a great time! I can't wait for Vivek to come visit YOUR home....and try all of our food. :-)

    love you bunches,
    Lea

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  2. Anonymous8:50 AM

    Yea, Becky!

    I'm so glad you made it to India safely and hope you start feeling 100% soon. Thanks for the fun blog posts. One request: More food pics!! =)

    Mary

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